We sighed. This is the final Central America country. The doublesided feeling persists. It seems one of the safest countries to travel. But our future is shady – we still do not know how we are going to get to Columbia. So stuffed with questions we are standing in a massive queue to get to Panama.

Coincidences

Mūsų naujas draugas Martin pasikvietęs pasisvečiuoti pas jį fermoje keletui dienų. | Our new friend Martin invited to stay at his farm for a few days.

If there is a sign on the church ‘The traveler sanctuary’ perhaps it’s not a bad idea to give a knock on the door. It’s getting late, we haven’t moved from the border as the rain was pouring down like crazy. What kind of church it’s hard to tell. As we have told in our earlier articles, the churches are almost like enterprises here. There is a good variety, but you never know the difference. The pastor was pretty friendly, and he offered a lovely corner in the yard to sleep.

The next morning we thought we were successful. In fact, it was more than that. Firstly, we stopped the truck which was going directly (meaning 500km) to Panama city. Bingo. Just when we have done half of the way, we all got pretty hungry. Stopped in one of the comedors, and after our light lunch, the camion didn’t think to turn on. Wonderful. We need to unload the bags and be back on the road.

But very soon Martin stops. The ex-miller is excited about our journey, and we soon find ourselves in his finca together with his numerous family celebrating the reunion: food, chats and a sunrise from the Pacific together. The elder generation is about launch their salsa rythms. They seem a very happy family. And that what matters to them.

The Panama city – there are no coincidences

Panamos kanalas. | Panama Canal.

The Panama city will perhaps mostly be liked by those who adore scyscrapers and fast american lifestyle. We even didn’t go into the tall building woods. Every morning we could see the sunrise dissapearing right behind them. We stayed at David’s place.

It perhaps would be the last place where we would imagine where David should live. The eco farm in the jungle would seem more ideal than the fast and furious vehicles and emotionless people. He and his daughther are rawfood eaters. You think of vegetarians or vegans, so go beyond it. David doesn’t eat any cooked food either. The meat products, dairy and anything processed becomes acidic, and that’s according to him a real threat to the body. Alkaline which means raw vegetables, fruits, legumes and nuts what is needed.

David'o maistas. | David's breakfast.

David doesn’t believe in money either. He believes everything on this earth should be for free. So he finds a way to harvest fruits. The universe is there for us all. He doesn’t believe in accidents either. So our arrival to his place is a non accident. In fact, all in life is not accidental, but follows a certain spiral. David thinks that we – humanity – think too much, using mainly left side of the brain. We do not allow our right side to contribute to the decisions. And we should be careful not get into the slavery that is produced by capitalism. He seemed to be an interesting person to listen to, with a very unique history line.

A long journey over the waves

Panama City

Couple days in the capital, and we are off on our journey towards south. Lots of uncertainty. So I guess for all those who wish to travel on a budget from one continent to another, it might really help. There are lots of discussions on the internet forums about the options, but majority of them – meaning going by yachts – would cost now half a thousand of dollars. But how a budget traveller can afford it? And particularly the local inhabitants. So we thought it must be a way to get across cheaper. We found a way – at least 4 times cheaper.

Firstly to those, who think that Darian Gap jungles might be a good challenge. Forget it. Guerilla is still active, so you don’t want to be an easy target over there. Besides, there are no paved paths or so. So there are other 2 options left – water or air. Or combination of that, which perhaps would be the cheapest option.

Reikėjo imti laivelį iki salos kurioje paiaiškėjo kaip mes kelsimės jūra iki Kolumbijos. | We had to take a little boat to an island where we found out how we had to make it to Columbia.

A. Fly Panama city to Puerto Obaldia. Panama Air offers around 100$ flights. Then Puerto Obaldia to Capurgana to Turbo by lanchas (boats). We didn’t choose this one as we wanted a bit of a challenge as well the times were not good for us.

B. A 4X4 from Panama City to San Blas islands (30£) or hitching there (yay, by hitching we saved up that money. There is a 6$ entry fee to indigenous reserve (San Blas belongs to indigenous).

Then you need to find a boat that goes to Puerto Obaldia, the frontier town in Panama. We needed to go to one of the main islands (Carti island) to find a boat. We found one that went in one day, but sometimes you might need to wait for one for couple days. Ask for Marcel, that is where boats get their fuel, and you can ask if anyone goes there soon to Puerto Obaldia or Colombia. The locals will help. Might confuse you a little bit, but then something will be helpful.

Carti island – Puerto Obaldia

Salelė – uostas. Gyvenantys žmonės – vietiniai indėnai, buvo įdomu pamatyti kaip atrodo jų buitis. | The island – port and the locals are indeginous people. It was interesting to observe the way thay live.

It was a tough journey over the waves with no safety jackets. The Carribean sea is not only emerald beauty, it can be ferociuos. Going in lancha means painful butts, lots of salty water on your face and everywhere, and ongoing fear you might appear in the water soon. But it’s cheap in comparison with all the other options – 100$.

Puerto Obaldia (Panama) to Capurgana (Colombia)

Žmonės būriuojantys tarp kontinentų sustoja šitame rojaus kampelyje. | Lots of sailers stop here at the paradise for some days.

You get your exit stamp in Puerto Obaldia. Make sure you have 2 copies of your passport (3 if you are doing a trip from Colombia). Puerto Obaldia is a small town with not much to do in. But it’s only one hour of the boat time to Capurgana, however the waves were still enourmous. Unlucky windy day.

Capurgana to Turbo

The last part should go into Colombia blog part, but to complete the process, it goes in here. It takes 2 hours to get to where finally road starts. You get your entry stamp in Capurgana. You might need to stay there a day to get a boat in the morning (it goes only in the mornings) and make sure your load is 10kg. Otherwise every extra kilo will cost you 500 pesos (.30 cents).

So in total you might need to spend 150$ instead of 500$. It’s a bargain despite the fact that it’s challenging and wet.

Sulaukėme laivelio-valties ir pirmyn į Kolumbiją! | The boat for Columbia finally came and here we go!

As a side part of it, we went to La Aguja island (one of the San Blas islands). Luckily, it was no weekend yet, so the island was sparsly populated. But weekends can be full, and an island which you can walk in 7 minutes will perhaps feel too small to so many people. It’s picturesque. And we rented for couple bucks underwater glasses so we can explore the underwater life. An experience of feeling like a massive fish in a gigantic aquarium is amazing, and no national discovery channel would be able to portray it. It’s all about senses and the views around you.

So we finally arrive to Colombia. The South America adventures – in the next chapter.