Tikali temples

Šeima sekmadienio rytą skalbia Peten - Itza ežere. | The family is doing its laundry in Peten - Itza lake.

We got to Tikali rapidly and unexpectedly – a Spanish-Mexican couple took us directly from Palenque (Mexico) to Tikali (Guatemala). We were still happy getting out of being illegal into being totally legal. We arrived to Peten Itza lake. Whilst the sun was setting down, we had a chat with German bohemian artists telling about their experiences living in Guatemala. ‘I don’t want to come back to the prison. No way, I’m going back there’ it sounded like a nightmare for them. ‘Every night you got to find a place to sleep. You got to buy protection for yourself, too. 200$ fee is enough’. With their partner, who was in jail too, they communicated using a mirror over the fence. Such stories were an interesting introduction into Guatemala.

Tikal

We pitched a tent near Peten-Itza lake. Glow-worms had their usual light dance party, a pig decided to visit us at midnight, and the full blanket fog covered the lake at the dawn. We swam whilst the sun was rising, seeing the bottom of the lake so clearly. Even thougth El Remate is quite a touristic place, no one, apart a local family, washing their clothes, are here to meet such a beauty.

Piramidžių viršūnės, matomos nuo aukštai iškilusios šventyklos | The peaks of the pyramids, that can be seen from one of the temples.

We dedicated a day for Tikali pyramids, which turned out to be an expensive pleasure, 21$. Tikali – or the place of sounds – can easily be called the most picturesque mayan place. The pyramids shoot out from the jungle. It got lost after the Mayan civilization got exctinguished, and then was rediscovered and unearthed. Later getting out of the town, one biologist and guide showed us a hill similar to hundreds of others :’it’s a temple yet to be unearthed’. The North of Guatemala abundant of such temples. ‘But why Maya disspeared, we still puzzled until today’ the biologist-guide tells us. ‘Didn’t conquistadors put their finger to it’. ‘When they arrived, the mayan were far from being powerful, only few groups were left. Maybe, there was some sort of unknown desease’.

The steep pyramids truly amazing. When you get to one of them up high, the full picture of jungles with shooting out peaks is reaveled. Tikali is one of the places so popular for upcoming ‘End of era’ events. We have to get out quickly, before the masses arrive to see what happens at the 21st. December, 2012 waiting to be saved from nature cataclysms or end of the world.

Smagiausias pasivažinėjimas - ant pikapo, bene populiariausios transporto priemones. | The coolest way of traveling is on the pickup, it seems the most popular vehicles over here.

The moments from Guatemala roads

What are the most evident signs of globalisation? Mobile phone im masai man hands, a cocacola bottle or chicken leg in the little Guatemala kid hands, and lots of the different churches. It used to be catholic some time ago, but now all sorts of churches, assemblies, groups, missionaries pop out, and the colonial church are not as much in use as simple sheds or windowless buildings, where you can hear loud singing and praying. USA or Europe’s job, nobody can tell.

It’s easy to hitch hike in Guatemala. You often jump into a pick-up, and travel happily over the mountains, jungles, cook in the sun or shiver in the clouds. In the evening you will be picked up rarely, people are scared. Once we got stuck in one village. The policemen wanted to hitch us a bus, but when the matter went astray (the bus was full), we continued to stand on the road. The sun goes down, and we go to the same police station to ask for the safe place to pitch a tent. They offered us an old trailer, and then their police station room to stay overnight. Bunkbeds and shower, and needed electricity. Can it get any better?

Rainbow susitikimo kai kurių dalyvių autobusiukas. Iš piešinių matosi, kad šie žmonės už taiką ir meilę. | Some people reached Rainbow gathering by such a truck. You can recognize from the pictures, that these people promote peace and love.

Rainbow gathering

We finally reach Sanchicha river, known to a rare Guatemalian. We came here invited by well known traveller in Lithuania, Justas Ketlerius.

We walk along river among the mountains and rainforests. We are curious and anxious a bit, too. It seems like we are coming back to western world, otherwise always surrounded by locals. But can we really call those gathering attendees westerners, if they run from whats so common to a usual American or European: buy, consume, run from yourself and otheres. This community, or else family as they call themselves, promote peace, love, harmony and community.

We are looked after from the very beginning. Some of them hug us, welcome us. We don’t have anything to eat with us, but we are assured we will get food later on.

Atogrąžų miškai. | Rainforest.

On the information desk there are three clear no’s ‘No drugs, alcohol and meat. The latter one is observed scrupulously. Alcohol consumption went unobserved, too. But what is drugs in this community, is highly disputable. Often, this community gets into trouble by mass media for it.

At first it was a bit uncomfortable to see lots of naked people, but soon after getting used to it, it was natural to communicate with any – dressed or undressed – member. We were the only ones with the watch on the wrist. Others do not count the time, they live it. Our attire was a bit different, too. Walking boots against the bare feet, dread-heads and loose eartly colour clothing. All looked very relaxed, living here and now. There is lots of freedom, spontanous creativity, and things happening out of the attendees experience: yoga, music therapy or massage.

Šiame susitikime visi pabrėžtinai malonūs ir svetingi. Iš karto, jautiesi it savas. | In this rainbow gathering everyone is especially pleasant to each other and welcoming. You feel ok from the very beginning.

So, there are two food cycles. The breakfast should be called lunch, and you get dinner nearly at night. In the kitchen everyone helps who feels like doing it. It’s a nice experience, good way to get to know each other and savour something only available for kitchen helpers- like just freshly made chocolate. It was painful at times to wait for food. The first call ‘food circle’ didn’t mean you will get it soo. And the last call to eat now, it will only mean you will get it in an hour. People stand in a circle, and sing songs, which you want to hum all day long. The lyrics sounds very much like pagan songs about love to nature, fire etc.

The meetings take every year since Woodstock all month long, celebrating full moon in the middle. There is a huge bonfire, lots of songs and instruments, dances and fire. The atmosphere of a momentum might describe a scene: a japanese woman feeds her child, around the big soup pot an international folk circle, someone prepares coffee with cardamon, someone plays violin or didgeridoo, someone makes a massage.

Lijo keturias dienas. Kažkaip bandėm saugotis nuo visiško perlijimo. | It was raining lots four days. We tried not to get totally soaken.

Our tent was pitched among yuccas in the rainforst. The wet climate washes away paths turning them into the mud baths. If you decide to go the big waterwall, you need to overcome the muddy dough, sharp vulcanic rocks, but you will be rewarded by an emerald water and a loud waterfall maybe even solo swimming. But the river flows near the campsites too, so everyone can easily go to the river in the morning. You undress, listen to the loud birds, see the sun among the leafy jungle, and dive into the clear water.

After four day stay before leaving, we decided to try music therapy session. The vigvam all covered in rugs, and there was a variety of instruments in the midle. Everyone lied down, and soon the musicians began the symphony of the sounds, carrying them all around letting the sound to cover you fully. Someone in scented hands did a head massage. After such a two hour session, which might cost you lots in the west, you feel like a feather.

Justas Ketlerius is a well know traveler in Lithuania. He is a frequent attendee of Rainbow gatherings. There are lots of lithuanians traveling across the world. He crossed Africa, criss crossed Asia and Australia, hitched even in Afganistan or Pakistan. ‘Why don’t you write, Justas. I would read your stories.’ ‘I like them telling alive’. We glad we had this opportunity.

On the way to El Salvador

Miela moteriškė mums pasiūlė nebaigtą namą. Mums tai buvo rūmai. | One sweet lady offered us to stay in the unfinished house.

From Sanchicha to EL Salvador we made it pretty soon. One night near the gas station. The cold morning in the clouds and fog, and then a sudden heat going down. In Hutiapa we found a small path near the forest to pitch a tent, but the locals warned us ‘it’s unsafe here. Drug users will rob you’. So we go searching some safer place. We see a place full of trucks. Trying out our luck there. The lovely lady, not only allows to pitch a tent near her little shabby house. She offers to stay in unfinished house, where we accommodate ourselves like in a castle. She treats us with a tea-soup incarparina in the evening, and cofee in the morning. She prays for us and gives us a Bible in Spanish. Now we got them two – a cowboy one (a gift by Canadian family) and Spanish one.

Demetrio brings us straight to the border, treating us with egg-beans-cheese breakfast first. He is a typical Guatemala inhabitant – smiling, happy, warm and good hearted. We liked this country, full of vulcanos, temples, jungles, and lakes. We want to go back some time, but now we are heading south to El Salvador.