Africa. Try number one or how the consultation from two embassies and the airlines fault cost us 24 hours behind the bars and three times over Atlantic


Once upon a time I went to South Africa. Then I was refused to enter their country. Then they put me in a mad house as if I was a prisoner. I wasn´t even allowed to make a call. Shame. That´s Africa.

A note written in one of the magazines among the lines. Ironically written next to a column named: ´We are looking for Discovery members with inspirational stories to tell´.

Iš Danguas.| From the sky.

Johannesburg airport. The neutral space, which we are trying to cross in order to reach our transit flight to Swaziland. There is no need of visa for us to that country. Why couldn’t we start with the Republic of South Africa? Simple as that – for Lithuanians the only option to obtain visa is to come back to Europe and do it there. No other option. So we are trying to avoid that, and start our African odyssey somewhere in the south. Two embassies have advised us that we don’t need any transit visas, so we are confident and cheerful handing our documents to the officer at the airport to check the passports. ´Visas?´ a bit sleepy in a bored tone asks he. ´We don´t need visas to Swaziland´ like excellent pupils answered him. ´But you need a transit South African visa, if you are going to a neighboring country´. Nice one. How on earth we suppose to know if the trusted source of knowledge – embassy – does not know that. South African Airlines apparently are guilty too for letting us through.

All of a sudden we find ourselves in a small room, among the others with fake passports and miniature mistakes made in their documents. The staff works slowly, feels as they don´t have a certain pattern where to start and how to end the case. They grab one, who is already snoozing waiting for his turn. Then his case dropped for an hour until he becomes an interesting one again.

One officer comes for the third time to ask which country we are from. We are sitting there without any clue what is going to happen next. ´Maybe you will be deported´ the officer looks tired and very unhappy. ´But could we not buy another flight to the non-neighbouring country?´ desperately we inquire. It seems the officers are satisfied for a moment with a proposal as such, and we attack Internet sporadicly trying to choose a country we would need to fly to. Some seem very expensive to get to, some don´t offer visa on arrival stuff. Finally, when we find an excellent choice, Zambia, we cannot buy online. The Internet page seems to seize working. We can buy at the airport, at the SAA office, but the cash changed into local money doesn´t cover entire fare, and the debit card is not accepted. The officers seem to loose their patience, and prescribe us a vital document. Inadmissables. Deported. ´What´s now?´we inquire both tired and frustrated. ´The airlines will have to take care of you. After all, it is their fault you are here. We had to charge them ten thousand money´ (don´t ask what money, we were confused enough about our own fate). It feels like the earth just shifted underneath the feet.

So we end up in the ARM (analytical risk management) facilities, or in short, a miniature prison inside the airport. We are taken away all electronic equipment. ´Are you journalists?` the officer asks sorting away our camera, voice-recorder and microphone. ´Yes, we are´ we answered. ´You will write well about me, yes?` and his behaviour instantly and ever since was excellent with us. He didnt´t even lock us in the day time.

P.Afrika. | S.Africa

For the meals we went into the small canteen, where finally all of us got to see each other and maybe chat a bit about ´why we are here´. Two Pakistani guys are here for four days already without any idea of how long they are going to stay here. Nobody permits them to call home. Nor that we had this option. The only difference, that we are for days and days without internet so our close ones for weeks do not have a clue where we are. But here, business people went for their usual affairs, and disappeared without any notice. They cannot smoke there too, so four days with forced quitting is not something easy to handle. And the other officer who was neutral to us, seems to provoke the Pakistani guys. ´What you are staring at´ shouts he. Being witness of non-provoking glance of Pakistani at the officer seemed to frustrate us about the silly situation, but we were sitting there silent.

After a meal we are back to our cell with walls painted with a crazy smiling clown and freakish green fish. We cannot work, as our computers and pens are taken away. So the only thing we are able to do, is to get some good rest. Sleep, eat, turn on the other side and read some Lithuanian magazines, which we found them among other magazines. We in fact were very excited to get something Lithuanian from the other side of the world, and still quite fresh seems. The only frustration was to not know what is awaiting for us. Any options seemed very expensive to us, but when someone behind the walls was wailing about his stolen money (´number five, what´s happening?´ the officers were not very happy with that number five, and he would never get out for dinner with us. When we thought of what other inadmissables facing, we thought that any lost money we will get back some day by working, and overall it is more like an adventure, but not a real threat for loss of freedom or something serious as others might encounter.

At first, South African Airlines talk to us particularly rudely. ´You will be sent back to Brazil´ the unhappy woman shouted. Unfortunate for them, because they not only had to buy us another ticket back to Africa (that week we made three times over Atlantic), but also to cover our expenses in San Paulo. Truth to say, back in Brazil, at first instance we were not admitted too – seems the officers for purely being emotional and scattered can talk illogical things. But then they had to admit us, as there is nothing else they could do. We don´t need visa for Brazil, and the only fault we made is to fly with SAA. But one manager at the SAA was particularly kind with us, and he researched the problem, helping us to get what we deserved.

Verslo klasė. | Business class.

We are getting the flight to Zambia then, hoping that the try number two will be far more successful than the first one. The same Johannesburg airport to pass through, so our anxiety pockets getting fuller. Pff, the first stage happened to end up successfully. But just before we meant to enter airplane heading to Zambia, the officer takes our tickets away and tears them up. What´s that on earth. She quickly handles us new ones. Business class! So with our traveling attire we end up sitting in the puffy chairs, being served by a ear to ear smiling stewardess, asking whether we would like to try wine before pouring it into the glass. And looking down through the tiny clouds at the land of South Africa. Oh well, being Lithuanian is not exactly the same as traveling for another inhabitant of the western world yet.

Have we lost anything in this story, and have we learned anything. Wasted time? But how can you call that wasted, when we got so needed rest, learned people stories and had such an adventure (not that we would like to repeat it again). Yes, there was lots of anxiety there, much more than anywhere on the road, but to be honest, this is all part of Iter Vitae, Journey of Life.

Hawaii – searching for a serene shelter in one of the most touristic places

Nusileidus paklausėme kuris paplūdimys yra mažiausiai lankomas turistų. Ten ir patraukėme. | After landing in Honolulu we asked which coast is least visited by tourists. We went there straight away.

If there is a well known place with plenty of tourists around, we know that it will take much longer to find your own space. But maybe we already worn out shoes or sandals enough, but often hitched people show us off beaten track places.

Hawaii is one of the States separated from the mainland my thousands miles. There is a army base in the island, and this is a good strategic point. In the island there also live people of slightly darker skin, and according to a guy that we hitched, often they feel a strong ambition to be independent.

From Australian winter to Hawaiian season-lessness

After a ten hour flight we land to an island, which is the most distant point from any possible mainland. It is a small place, you can drive around in couple hours, and make it through in less than an hour.
In the airport we go straight to the information centre and ask ‘which place in the island has the least tourists?’. She could could not hide the surprise, it must be the least given question to her. ‘The Northern shore. It’s beautiful out there’. We are going to north.

You can easily get around the island with the ‘city’ public transport. The bus no.55 would get you to a northern part too. ‘You might need to hold your luggage on your lap’ one man warns. In fact he offered us a lift from the doctor to a shopping centre just randomly. Apparently he is a couchsurfer too (he offers his place to sleep for free), and he often shows tours around of his beloved island.

Šiaurinė Oʻahu salos pakrantė mus labiausiai sužavėjo. | The nothern Oʻahu coast was the niciest.

To save up some time we are lured into this offer, and after making on part of the road by bus, the one that we need does not accept us on board. The driver is not aloud to take to the bus if you have luggage. So we need to hitchhike. What a ‘pity’.

So we then straight back into ‘our’ mood and surely a very interesting guy stops to us. He works in the navy, and started to serve there right after the September 11 attacks. ‘I know a place where you might like to go’ he says after hearing our long story of traveling so far.

There are so many cars here as everyone came to see a sea turtle. We jump out of the car and as kids go to see that slow beauty. It is paying now attention whatsoever to any curious kids or kid like grownups.

We passed the Waimea beach which should be one of the nicest ones, and went up to the hill, passing the Hawaiian temple remains.

Pasivaikščiojimas po džiungles. | A walk in a joungle.

We are very soon with our backpacks enter this so called army property, where in fact quite a few joggers and hunters share the area.The path is soft and tender, formed from the long thorns. We strolled up the edges of the slope and found decent place to camp out looking to the jungles and the bit of the ocean. It’s truly peaceful here. The massive tree nearby. The trunk is soft and tempting to be touched. If you have never hugged a tree, its worth trying it. The peace flows there. In you too.

Out of emergency bags we form a shelter. It’s hardly enough for our feet to cover, but it should secure from the rain that comes and goes as pleased.

Vėžlys ir Evelina. | Turtle and Evelina.

Sometimes you don’t need to rush. If you find a place where you want to stay a bit longer in order to fully live ‘here and now’, you should stay in. So we have our temporary home with a million dollar look terrace. In the evening we climb the tree and enjoy the silence.

Is is possible to find your own place in the beach? If you want to. We don’t go the place where everyone is toasting, but find a nice cozy place where we crash on for a day, and pitch a tent at night. With the borrowed snorkeling equipment we the beauty of the underwater is revealed. Sea turtles, colourful fish in flocks or independent ladies.

Pu’u o Mahuka Heiau

Though before Hawaii became a state, just a few hundreds years ago, they had their own life- both secular and religious. The temple of Hawaii Pu’u o Mahuka Heiau- is on the top hill of Waimea valley. It’s just wonderful to ponder how being so far away from everyone else they had so many similar elements in naturalistic religions; gods of fertility and war, sacrifice and priests.

The flight to Alaska is soon, so we are about to hitch back to Honolulu the long way (and new to us) round. Energetic Mimo after having listened our story, all excited brings us to a paid camping site, and after a quick chat with her cousin’s worker, we are staying there for free. The ocean, warm showers, needed electricity. And lots of cats.

Practical tips

Visas
You should look if you are eligible for the waiver visa on the ESTA site

Hipimobilis | Hippiemobil

Transport
The same as traveling from Bali to Perth, the same we are using Jetstar services. Its a budget trip. You won’t need to buy water, but you better bring food on board, as the only option to pay for the sandwich is by credit card, no cash accepted.
You cannot take fruits or veggies to the country, so you better eat it or throw it away.
Hitching in Hawaii is easy. People stop with no problems, and you can hear a good life story or two.
If you use public transport, the drivers are kind enough to tell how to get to a necessary place. The island is small hence you can use no. 55 bus to get around, but if you have luggage with you might not be accepted on board.

Food
Comparing with Australia, food is cheaper here. We are not fans of fast food chains, so Mcdonald is not an option apart for coffee and free internet. No sockets, so you are limited to time till your battery lasts.

Hygiene
There are plenty of toilets in the beaches, but scarce in other public places. Sometimes they even locked with codes, and some nearby shops workers might reveal the magic code to open so needed toilet. McDonald’s is often an option. Showers are in the beach too.

TV serijalo 'Dingę' (kuris buvo filmuotas šitoje saloje) įkvėpti nusprendėme paimprovizuoti ir išbandyti save kitaip. Būstas dviem naktims. | Inspired by TV series 'LOST' (which was filmed in this island) we decided to improvise and challenge ourselves a bit differently. A two night house.

Sleep
We only slept in the northern place, so we can only say it was possible to sleep in the beach up there. Even if there was a sign of no camping, nobody gave us any bother. However, we try to be neat and quick to pitch a tent and pack it up quickly in the morning. In the army base park the situation is even easier – you can camp whenever you want. Stay alert and don’t go off the tracks too often as the hunters out there doing their job.